AN AMERICAN LADY IN SOUTHEND, 1878
Eliza Hardie Brent
The following extracts are from
the journal of Eliza Hardie Brent (1844-1925), of Hawesville, Kentucky,
who, in 1878, visited Scotland and stayed, for the greater part of her
holiday, in the United Presbyterian Manse at Southend with her sister Maggie
Hardie (1846-1928), wife of the Rev Andrew McLaren Young (1840-19 13).
The two met in Crieff where Maggie was recuperating in a sanitorium after
'losing her health' while a missionary in India. They married, and Maggie
subsequently had six children, one of whom, Margaret (1897-1964) married
John Galbraith (1885-1974), a local farmer. Eliza herself was herself a
widow at the time of her visit She had married young, and her husband,
Richard Brent, died in 1870, his death preceded by that of their infant
daughter, Mary. Eliza subsequently married again, to one Frank Lander,
but bore no further children.
The journal, which in its entirety runs from June 26th to August 19th, was transcribed from the original, and annotated, by Susan N Skomal, a descendant, in the USA, of Maggie Young. I have had to reduce it in length -for example, some references to letters received and written have been edited out - and I have also standardized the majority of place-names and family names, which Eliza spelled as she heard them pronounced 'Ralston', for instance, invariably appears as 'Rawlston' which must represent the spoken form of the name at the time. There are some names - 'Comingo for one - which are not local and which I have been unable to check, therefore these remain as they appear in the journal.
The journal copy was loaned to me by Mr John Galbraith, Polliwilline Farm, great-grandson of the Rev Andrew and Maggie McLaren Young. These extracts illuminate aspects of life in Kintyre in the latter half of the nineteenth century, and not exclusively within the frame of middle-class society. Granted, there are few glimpses of genuine working class life, but the references to cheese-making, for instance, are worth having, and it is also remarkable to realise the extent to which the tenant-farmers of the time were able to entertain socially-elevated guests. Finally, the writing itself occasionally touches poetic heights, as in the description, on 20th July, of the evening sky over the Irish coast. Editor
June 26th. Reached Glasgow this morning. Took 11.5 train for Greenock ... The scenery on the Clyde was most beautiful ... Arrived at Greenock in time for Campbeltown boat. Here I met Mr Young and friend, a minister who was accompanying him home, Mr Life ... At 5 PM reached Campbeltown. Found a carriage waiting in which we were driven to Southend. The carriage was called a wagonette, one seat in front, two behind, facing each other. At 6.30 were welcomed to the Manse by Maggie. This is a beautiful stone house with green trees, gravelled walks, flowers and 8 large rooms, bathroom etc, all the modern conveniences. Maggie is looking well and was happy to welcome me to Southend
27th. This is Fast Day. The Thursday before Communion. Service at 11 by Rev Life. In the evening at 7 by the same. The church is beside the house, a gravel walk between. Contains a gallery, a very high pulpit, and in front of the minister, also elevated, sits the 'Precentor', a man who leads singing. The 'manse pew' ... has a reading desk, foot-stool, cushioned seats etc, is quite large, different from the others. Is the seat of honor, as the Minister & family are persons of bonor. Everything is new to me but very pleasant.
28th. Today Mr Life left. Mr Scotland arrived in his place. He is a young man from Ayrshire. Very talented and entertaining. We walked to the seashore. Gathered some pebbles & wild flowers, which grow in great abundance here. Saw the heather, for the first time. Enjoyed the exhilarating air from 'Old Ocean'.
29th. Had service at 12. Sermon by Mr Scotland, an exposition of 23rd Psalm. Walked again in the afternoon. We have bright daylight here until 11 PM.
30th. I attended service at 11. Heard a sermon by Mr Young on the words, 'Whatsoever ye eat ...' I did not remain [for] Communion service, but attended again at 3 PM. Sermon by Mr Scotland on subject, 'We are strangers on the earth'... Had prayers & singing in the parlor.
July 1st. Breakfasted as usual at 8 AM. Spent the morning upstairs with Maggie. In the evening, Mr Mitchell & wife called. Mr M driving Mr Young, Scotland & myself to 'Machereach', residence of the Marquis of Lorne. Here we saw how royalty lived, went through all the rooms & over the exquisitely laid-out grounds. I never saw any place more beautiful, or finer flowers. One ave[nue] was hedged with scarlet fuschias, which grow here as large as our quince or peach trees. Also hedges of rhododendron, holly etc. The drive there and back was delightful. We came & returned by different routes, in all seven miles. When we reached home, my first letter from Hawesville was awaiting me and I hailed it as a dear friend.
2nd. Today we had a delightful trip to the Mull of Kintyre Lighthouse, a distance of 8 miles over the heath-covered hills, where thousands of sheep were grazing. Here I saw pcat being dug out for fuel and piled up in stacks to dry. This fuel is used altogether in the hills, coal being so difficult to transport. We were driven in a 'gig' by young Mr McNaughton. The gig has two seats, back to back. We stopped on the way at a farm, Drumavoulin, where Mr Y made a pastoral visit. Here we had lunch - strawberries, cake and the most delicious milk. We reached the Lighthouse at 12, where we dined, then went down to the sea Gathered shells and ferns and spent four hours very pleasantly. Returning, we had a long hill to walk up. Saw moorhens [presumably grouse - Ed.] and chickens - they resemble pheasants. We caught a chick to look at. Hares and rabbits are seen all about. And crows everywhere. The lark is also in this country, sings in the air until entirely lost to sight. We reached Mis Hunter's at 7, where tea was prepared. As we were expected after tea, the servants were assembled and prayers held. We reached home at 9.30 - still daylight!
July 3rd. Mr Scotland left this morning. After dinner the Young Ladies Missionary meeting assembled. They meet once a month at the Manse. This evening they all remained to tea and we had a pleasant evening. Sewed on the machine during the day. Walked out after they left.
July 4th. This is the 4th and I spent it visiting with Mr Young. We were at three places, where the usual supply of good things were brought forward. Mr Mitchell drove us. I gathered wild flowers etc. Walked with Maggie.
July 5th. Sewed in the morning. Mr & Mrs McNaughton and Mr Rodgers spent the evening & took tea Packed up and got ready to go Edinburg. We must go up at 5 to meet Campbeltown boat, which leaves at 7 for Greenock.
July 6. Rose early. Took passage with Mr Y on the 'Post' for C. Two other gentlemen were passengers. When about half-way, on descending a little declivity, the horse stumbled & fell, throwing us all out with force to the ground. We were all a good deal stunned, but most miraculously were none badly hurt. I had my face & hands bruised, my clothes muddy and Mr Y knee cut etc. The others slight bruises. The wagon broke and horse hurt. Fortunately a farm house was quite near, where we got some of the mud brushed off (it had rained) and a conveyance, which brought us still in time for the boat. We reached Greenock in time to take the 1 PM train for Edinburg.
[The Edinburgh entries have been omitted and the Journal resumes, for our purposes, with Eliza Hardie Brent's return to Kintyre.]
July 13th. Left Edinburg 6.30. Miss A, Wm A & Mr Laidlaw went to train. Parted from my dear Aunt, whom I cannot hope to see again. She is the dearest old lady I ever saw. Reached Greenock at 9.30; waited there for the [SS] Kinloch; walked about the city. The boat arrived at 11, when we set out for Campbeltown. It was a great holiday time for working people of Glasgow ("the Fair") so the boat was crowded with people seeking a place of rest on the sea shore. Arrived at C at 5. Was met by Mr Young and Rev Comingo, with a carriage. Mr C & mother had arrived the day before. Had a delightful drive. Met Mrs C - a very sweet old lady.
July 14th. Heard a sermon by Rev Comingo, also one from Mr Young.
July 15th. Mrs McEwing spent the day. She & I called at Miss Buchanan in the evening. Mrs Mc is the sweetest loveliest old lady.
July 16th. Were invited to Keil to tea This is the residence of Mr Fleming and the most elegant house I ever was in. Mrs Comingo and I drove in a phaeton, I driving. The carriages were sent from Keil. Played lawn tennis. Walked through the beautiful gardens. At tea had most delicious strawberries - this is the height of the season here. Brought home a most exquisite bouquet. I again drove; the coachman rode behind. July 17th. Mr & Mrs Comingo left this morning for London. In the afternoon a carriage was sent for us and Mr Y, Maggie and I went to Mrs Craig's, where we took tea We made a call also at Langley's. After tea to McKea's [presumably McKay's] where Mr Young was to hold a prayer meeting. Saw at Craig's the 'biers' where the ewes are kept, cheese-making apparatus, etc,
July 18th. Mrs & Miss Guthrie and Mrs Fleming called. Also Mrs Major McKey and her Sister. Such nice people, 'the oldest aristocratic family here'. Took a walk to Dun Averty, a famous Rock on the shore. Gathered shells and pebbles. Called on Mrs Brown & Miss Hunt.
July 19th. This evening I went with Mr Young for a walk to the top of a hill near by here. We had a fine view of the surrounding country. I gathered some ferns which I am pressing. After tea called with Maggie on two maiden ladies, sisters who live together, Cordiner. They are such nice old ladies. I found on my return the 'Plaindealer' [newspaper from Hawesville], also invitation for Monday to dine at Mrs Ralston's, friends of Maggie's living beyond Campbeltown. We accepted, so I will see some new part of the country. Made some lemonade. This has been a warm day. I put on this morning my sacque, the first light thing since I came. I have not even thought of putting on my lawn dresses. Crocheted a little pair of white shoes. The choir met to practice singing in the session rooms of the church. Two members called. I made custard for a sick woman in the village.
July 20th. I spent today very quietly at home; for a wonder, no one called. I sewed a little on the machine & put the fringe on a tidy. After tea we took a walk, one of the most enjoyable since I came. The evening was perfect. Great piles of fleecy clouds lay over Ireland so soft and hazy that the scene reminded me of visions of dreamland. The Island of Sanda with its lighthouse in the fading daylight resembled a huge monster rising out of the deep. The mail here is always brought about 8 PM so we found the letters & papers awaiting us. None for me, but one to Maggie contained an invitation for me to visit on Monday at Greenlees of Burnbank, one of the most elegant places in Campbeltown ... The weather here has been perfect this Summer, not a continuous rainy day since I came. The weather is very uniform in temperature, no extremes of heat or cold. Scarcely ever any frost in winter. Many of the farmers have a second crop planted on the field from which potatoes have been taken. Flowers live all winter in rooms without fires, and many flowers, such as pinks etc, bloom all winter in the open air. I never saw such magnificent roses as grow here. It is now 11 PM
July 21st. My fourth Sabbath in Scotland. This morning Mr Young preached from the text, 'Be not weary in well-doing'. It was one of the best sermons I have heard for a long time. Mr Y is an excellent preacher, and almost idolized by his flock. He is one of the kindest best men I ever kncw, a thorough Scholar and hard Student. We accepted an invitation today to visit at McNaughton's on next Friday. Our time till then is all engaged. Tomorrow and next day - Campbeltown. Wed[nesday] a tea party is to be held in the session rooms of the church for the village women, to be given by Mrs Fleming of Keil. She, Maggie and I are to superintend. We are to have visitors on Thursday, also for tea on Saturday. I have on my linen lawn today, for the first time. This is a lovely day. It is now 6 PM. Tea is ready. 10.30 We have had a pleasant evening reading aloud & the French governess from Keil - a sweet little creature - came down and spent an hour. We arranged to bathe together next week. I did not like to go alone. She & the children bathe every day at twelve. I know I will enjoy it. Mlle Kroumier is [her] name.
July 22nd. Today we went to Trodigal, the residence of Mr & Mrs Ralston. Mr & Mrs Mitchell went with us, and drove us in their 'machine'. The road was new to me and a very pretty one. The place is 12 miles away, and it was nearly 1 PM when we arrived. Quite a party had been invited to dine with us. Mr, Mrs & Miss Middlemas of Edinburgh, Mr & Mrs Thompson, Rev & Miss Goodfellow, also of Edinburg. I was very much pleased with the party' especially the first-named family. Amongst the party were five elders & two ministers. After dinner we all walked to Losset Park, the residence of Maj McNeal whose wife is cousin to the Marquis of Lorne. The grounds are the most romantic I ever saw; a carriage reach of a mile in length leads from the entrance of the grounds to the Mansion, but the walk is something lovely. You pass over rustic bridges, through a glen through which, far down below, flows a little 'burn', with scenic cataracts. You imagine you are far in one of our forests, so deep is the shade. Everywhere you see rustic seats & summer houses wreathed with ivy. The 'Ramble' in Central Park, N York, resembles it at some points. The immediate grounds surrounding the house were a blaze of beauty. We were invited and shown through the house. We were shown a brooch which had been given to one of the ancestors by King Bruce of Scotland, for kindness shown during his misfortunes. Queen Victoria was very anxious to possess it & wrote asking for it not long since. A photo of it was rightfully sent instead, as it was an heirloom much prized. The furniture etc was quietly grand. The walk back was very warm. Mr Young & I gathered a lot of sea-weed on the shore of Machrihanish Bay, upon which Mr R's house is situated. This is a beautiful bay & from this point we have a view of the Island & peaks of Jura. At tea we had the addition of four others to our company, Rev Mr & Mrs Thompson of Campbeltown, Rev Gillis of Glasgow & another gentlemen from C., making 17 in all who sat down to tea We left Trodigal at 7 and went to Burn Bank, the residence of Mr & Mrs Greenlees & their three lovely daughters of Campbeltown. The house is most elegant and furnished exquisitely. We were to spend the night, so I was ushered to my room to prepare for supper. This room had a Persian bed upholstered in blue, the chair etc to correspond. Most elegant chamber & toilet sets of white & gilt china. A wardrobe with an immense mirror in the centre pannels [sic]. Beautiful pictures and lace curtains. The parlor is opposite, a lovely room. When my toilet was made we were ushered upstairs into the drawing-room which is a marvel of beauty. Several persons were invited to meet us. At 10 we had supper, a meal consisting of fresh salmon, wines etc etc. At eleven we had worship, then I came to my room, tired after a very busy day.
No 44 Autumn 1998
Part two next month
Page 2: Janet and Marie Morrison's 1999 Trip to Scotland - Part Two
Page 3: A Series of e-mails from Daniel Stevenson
Page 4: An American Lady in Southend, 1878
Page 5: Bits and Bobs
Page 6: Antiquity and Technology
Page 7: Lt Colonel John Porter: A Gallant Provost
Page 8: By Hill and Shore