A Wee Tour of Kintyre - Part 2
Peninver
This is Ardnacross Bay, which looks out towards Drumadoon and Blackwaterfoot on the Isle of Arran. From here runs inland the beautiful Glen Lussa, through which a minor road goes past Glenlussa House to Drumgarve. Along the north bank of the rivers 700 metres south-west of the farm, lies the 18th century township of Killipol, with its tiny ruined mill.
What happened to the "huge wadge of gold" said to have been found with the bones of its owners in the largest Bronze Age burial cairn in Kintyre at Gort na h-Ulaidhe, the "Enclosure of the Treasure"? No-one knows. It stands on the forested slopes of Maol a' Chuir 700 metres north west of Kilkeddan. It has five existing chambers, and vast quantities of human bones were found here.To the North of here lies the remarkably preserved Kildonan Dun, occupied from the 2nd through to the 14th century. Beyond Kildonan is Ugadale Point, where in a field almost opposite Ugadale House lies "Bruce's Seat". Here the fugitive king rested to await a boat to ferry him to Arran after his escape over Beinn an Tuirc. According to legend, he also bequeathed the Brooch of Ugadale to his loyal guide, Gilchrist Mackay as he bade him farewell, which his descendants possess to this day.
Grogport
Lost in the mists of time is the reason for the enigmatic name "Sailor's Grave" given to a Bronze.Age stone kist, which stands just yards from here along the north bank of Sunadale Water. Further north lies the "Priest's Chair," another mysteriously named antiquity in the form of a large distinctively shaped cup-marked boulder. It lies on the rock-strewn hillside roughly 350 metres north west of North Crossaig farm. For many years an organic tannery has produced some unique products to the south of here. The view due east is towards Pirnmill, Whitefarland Point and Imachar, on the Isle ofArran.
Further south nearer Carradale lies the burial ground of Brackley, still used to this day, with close by an impressive chambered cairn. A group of boulders forms part of this and is known as the "Sanctuary Stones". For centuries this has been attributed with protective and curative powers and votive offerings of iron nails can be seen hammered into a conspicuous rift on the side of the "Toothie Stane," some quite remarkably recent!
Claonaig
From here the best view is to be enjoyed of the Isle of Arran - the high peaks, including Goat Fell, dominating across Kilbrannan Sound. The road continues on past the quiet village of Skipness to the massive thirteenth century fortress of Skipness Castle. An important MacDonald stronghold until the fall of the Lordship of the Isles in 1493, and developed in several stages, it passed to the Campbell
2nd Earl of Argyll, whose descendents held it until the middle 19th century. It withstood siege by the MacDonalds during the Colkitto raids prior to the massacre at Dunaverty. Nearby, Kibrannan Chapel, dedicated to St Brendan, has stood for over 700 years, with fine carved gravestones still to be seen under protective wooden covers.
A beautiful walk can be enjoyed a mile or so south of here. A small car park marks the start of a walk where the visitor can experience a native oak woodland, a feature once common throughout Kintyre. These woods are important refuges for small plants such as mosses, liverworts and lichens which festoon the trees and rocks. The trail passes beneath Oak, Birch, Rowan, Holly and Hazel, and down to the shore, with views across to the Isle ofArran.
Kennacraig
This tidal islet known once as Ceann na Creig, "End of the Rock," stands in West Loch Tarbert and serves as the ferry terminal for Islay (and Jura), which used to be at the West Loch pier nearer Tarbert, outgrown by the modern
large ferries. The pier is still used by a number of fishing boats which return in the evenings followed up the West Loch by sea birds. In the 1960's the ferry MV Lochiel struck a reef in the West Loch and sank, fortunately without loss. Legend has it that many sheep aboard were saved by Argyll & Sutherland Highlander Territorials from Islay who, knowing that sheep could swim, simply pushed them overboard to safety then retired to drink the bar dry! She was refloated and for many years served as a restaurant in Bristol Harbour.
Across the loch one can see the road which runs around Kilberry peninsula, offering a fine scenic drive and rejoining the main road further north towards Ardrishaig. Near the head of the West Loch is Eilean da Ghallagain, where in the
6th century lived Conall, one of the first rulers of the Kingdom of Dalriada.
More next time.
WWee Drams - E-mails, comments, queries and enlightenment from around the world.
Page 3: More correspondence with Mr John Wallace
Page 4: A Wee Tour of Kintyre - Part 2
Page 5: The Campbeltown Aurorae The Campbeltown Aurorae
Page 6: An E-mail From Derek Wray Townshend about the Stewarts
Page 7: Children of the Home Front